Berlin, Germany

Berlin was a city that I adored but that I am having some difficulty in finding the right words so I can write about it. Similar to my experience at Auschwitz, the town is filled with such history but this is not the blog, nor I the author, to accurately describe the experience. Nor am I overly inspired to give an in depth analysis on currywurst. Therefore, I will simply say this: I loved my time there and would go back in a heartbeat.

Munich, Germany

I feel sorry for vegetarians who visit Munich for it really is a meat lover’s paradise. On every corner, butchers sell a huge variety of meats and small goods raw for home consumption, or cooked for an easy on-the-go snack. Haxen (pork shins wrapped with meat and covered in pig hide) spin on rotisseries, their glistening skin crisping up before your eyes. Bratwurst and weisswurst sit on hot grill plates, skin firm and taunt waiting to burst open in your mouth. In a town where, besides sauerkraut, the only vegetables you are likely to find on your plate are potatoes, it would be a real shame to deny yourself the mountains of carnivore pleasures offered here; you can eat like a king for next to nothing.

A typical selection of cooked meats and sausages

A Fleischpflanzerl (Germany's hamburger)

I guess the vegetarians could resign themselves to eating in the bakeries and although not the healthiest of options, the variety and quality of cakes and pastries available is truly overwhelming.

It seems that I have been bringing the miserable weather with me from one destination to the next and Munich was no exception. After walking for hours in the rain on the first day, I decided to take a guided tour of the city on my second day. New Europe Tours are redefining the way tour companies operate. Offering a half-day walking tour of the city, the tour is provided for free with the guides receiving their pay on a tips-only basis.

Hofbräuhaus

Marienplatz: Rathaus-Glockenspiel

The walking tour was very informative and enjoyable; my guide, Curt, an American expat living in Munich, was so great that I decided to sign up for the afternoon tour to Dachau concentration camp with him.

The museum at Dachau is very well laid out, highly information and has the placards next to the exhibits in German and English. It is very hard not to be moved after a visit and spend the evening in quiet reflection afterwards.

The entry gate at Dachau

The footprints were the barracks were

The memorial sculpture on site

The Romantic Road, Germany

A crowd has gathered outside the shop window, transfixed by the expert hands working and shaping the dough. After many minutes, a collective “aha” is heard when the crowd has finally understood the secret to the pastry’s round shape and how it is achieved. Young children quickly look up at their parents, asking them to buy one or two to try. I, of course, could not resist either. I was fascinated by the local pastry here in Rothenburg ob de Tauber called schneeballen. Traditionally just rolled in sugar, they can now be found all over town, coated in various chocolates or stuffed with caramel or marzipan. I found the pastry itself to be quite dry and not very sweet; I’m glad I tried it but didn’t feel the need to finish my mini-sized one, or come back for seconds.

Schneeballen

Rothenburg ob de Tauber is in the northern part of the Romantic Road; an area in Bavaria that stretches from Wurzburg in the north to Füssen in the south. Approximately thirty towns comprise the area but I decided to visit only four: Rothenburg ob de Tauber, Würzburg, Nuremberg and Füssen.

I can vividly remember the date and location when I first heard about Rothenburg ob de Tauber. It was 11 December 2001 and my parents and I were having lunch in Epcot’s Biergarten restaurant. Our server was a lovely girl hailing from Rothenburg ob de Tauber and doing a college exchange program at Disneyworld. I distinctly remember her describing her town, how much she loved it and how to looked like it had jumped straight out of a fairytale and I can recall deciding that “one-day” I will get there.

Rothenburg ob de Tauber does not disappoint. It is the cutest, most charming town I’ve visited and perfect for walking. The town itself is compact and all the sights are accessible by foot.

The cute streets of Rothenburg

During my stay I also visited the Medieval Criminal Museum which is a look at the laws, punishments and torture during that era. It is a very well laid out exhibit with the right balance of education and shock-factor with all the torture devices.

The next stop on my tour was Würzburg. Unfortunately, I visited on a Sunday (so everything was shut) and it was pouring rain to boot. I walked around the town for a few hours taking in the sights but ended up at the hostel bar watching the finale of the Women’s World Cup.

Würzburg skyline

After Würzburg was Nuremberg: famous for its Christmas market and the Nazi Party rally grounds and Nuremberg trials after the war. Unlike the cute sized Rothenburg, Nuremberg is definately a city but still has its charms.

The view from the castle over the Nuremberg skyline

I visited the Rally Grounds that are now a museum and it was quite upsetting. Actually, upsetting is probably the wrong word; it made me angry. It really is a powerful place to visit. The museum sets out Germany's progression from signing the Treaty of Versailles to the rise of Hitler and the Third Reich touching only briefly on the Holocaust.

The final stop on my Romantic Road tour was Füssen; famous for the Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein castles of King Ludwig II. Neuschwanstein is nicknamed the Disney castle as it is reputed that it was the inspiration for Walt Disney’s design for Sleeping Beauty’s castle. The walk between the two castles in about 30 minutes uphill but enjoyable and the views at the top are definitely rewarding.

Side entrance to Hohenschwangau

Hohenschwangau from the uphill walk to Neuschwanstein

Swan Lake - between to the two castles

Neuschwanstein's courtyard

Neuschwanstein from the Marion Bridge