Cook&Taste Barcelona

The number one rated "thing to do" in Barcelona on tripadvisor.com is Cook&Taste cooking classes so of course, I had to sign-up.

The classes are limited to 14 students, but on my day there were 4 no-shows so it was easy to get to know the group. The class was predominately demonstration based with one or two people helping with the mise en place for each dish.

The menu for the lesson was:

• Cold tomato soup served in a shot glass with cheese, aioli and pesto
• Potato tortilla with tomato bread
• Seafood paella
• Catalan cream

The lesson began with the preparation for the catalan cream as it needed time to chill in the fridge. Similar to creme brulee in ingredients and the sugar crust but different in that it is not baked in a water bath, but rather cooked on the stove alone. This was the course that I elected to assist with and my task was simply to separate the eggs and to stir the custard over the stove until thick. I did learn a new trick, another way to tell that a custard is cooked (I usually use the finger on the spoon test) is if there is no foam on the top of the saucepan.

Next up was the preparation for the cold tomato soup which included peeling and blending tomatoes and adding balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper before setting aside to chill. When it was cold, it was served with grated Idiazabal cheese, aioli and piccada (pesto) made from walnuts, garlic and parsley.

The second course was potato tortilla with tomato bread. The predominant lesson I took away from this course is just how much oil is used to make tortilla!

The third course was seafood paella. We were given recipes for all the courses but on the day, this dish varied from the written instructions substantially and numerous handwritten corrections were required. For the paella, I learnt that the inclusion of the liquidised liver of the squid will add an extra intensity of flavour (just don't let your guests see if it they are squeamish)!

After we were full of paella, it was time to caramelise the sugar on the catalan cream. It was still a little soft as it hadn't had sufficient time to set in the fridge but the flavour was lovely.

The cooking class was enjoyable and very social; it was a lovely way to finish up my time in Barcelona. However, if you are a proficient cook, there wasn't much to "learn" at the course and it was more about just enjoying the company of others and a "homecooked" meal.

Barcelona's magic water fountain at night

Restaurant Bistrot El Regulador, Barcelona

During the three days I was in Barcelona, it was wet and windy for the majority of that time, clearing only briefly on the final day. In order to take advantage of the weather, I took a bicycle tour of the city for about three hours and then spent the rest of the day walking.

Cold and wet in front of Barcelona's Arc de Triomphe

Of course, everyone seemed to have a fully functiona bicycle but I was given one that squeaked everytime the brakes were briefly touched, attracting numerous stares and curses from the locals throughout the ride.

My squeaky bicycle and I

Needing a rest in the afternoon I searched for somewhere to eat. Whilst walking towards the main market (always a good choice for a light fresh meal), I stumbled across the restaurant in the Hotel Bagues on Las Ramblas and ended up having a surprisingly fantastic meal.

The meal commenced with complimentary nibbles and an amuse bouche of blue cheese brulee which was sweet, salty and tangy at the same time. As Neil Perry would say, it was "perfectly balanced".

Assorted nibbles: nuts, potato crisps and olives

Blue cheese creme brulee

For the appetizer, I had a salad of "8 greens with dried tomatos and parmesan shavings" which was just what I needed. There was nothing exceptional about it but it was so similar to what I'd make at home that I really enjoyed it.

For the main course, I again ordered off the appetizer menu and had tuna tartare with crisp bread and wasabi ice-cream. The contrast of the cold and soft ice-cream with the firm tuna and crisp bread was splendid. I found this course to be an example of fusion food at it's finest and I loved it. The tuna was full of flavour (seaweed, sesame, ginger) but the entire dish was still very light.

I was going to skip dessert as it was already 3.45pm and I had a cooking class at 5pm but I couldn't resist after watching the table next to me order the bunuelos of chocolate with sechuan pepper ice-cream and then moan in delight with every mouthful. The bunuelos were soft and gooey in the centre (like a fondant) and the cool ice-cream complimented the hot oozing chocolate nicely.

Overall, I enjoyed this meal tremedously. For the amount of food I ordered, it was very well priced and a great spot to rest one's feet with a great view out to Las Ramblas. The only downside of the restaurant, was the view out the side window....

Masterchef: Valencia

I wasn't in Valencia long enough for any life-changing culinary adventures but two meals stood out.

I am slowing getting used to the meal times in Spain and at 3pm yesterday, it was time for some lunch. Wandering aimlessly through the back streets of Valencia, I stumbled across Cerveceria 100 Montaditos, my new favourite Spanish food-chain. The concept is simple, there's a menu of 100 small baguettes (7-10cm long each), you write down the ones you want on an order form, and they call out your name when its done. Most baguettes costs 1Euro but some gourmet ones are 2Euros; perfect for a backpacker. For someone who's knowledge of Spanish culinary terms is limited to jamon, queso, pollo and gambas, it was a case of lucky-dip. I knew I'd ordered jamon, but with what???

I loved it and recommeded the place for dinner to my roommates for the night, Skye and Effie (and ended up eating round 2 with them). The concept fitted in very well with my "eat a little, often" idea; lots of variety, small portion sizes.

Effie's plate: tortilla with salsa, chocolate and tuna

The preparation area

On my second day in Valencia, I decided to set myself a challenge as since leaving San Sebastian my diet has been primarily bread, jamon and cheese. So today was to be a day without any of it.

I headed to the Central Market, one of the oldest in Europe to find some supplies to cook at the hostel's kitchen for dinner. Feeling like a contestant on Masterchef, I had to create a gourmet dish, with unlimited fresh produce but limited condiments and spices. So how did I go?

Well, I cheated a little. I bought some chicken that was already marinated and mixed with onion and assorted peppers so all I had to add was some spinach for greens. For such a simple dinner, it tasted heavenly. I actually could feel my stomach rejoicing at being reunited with vegetables!!

Dinner underway

The finished product

So, feeling like the girl on the Healthy Choice television advertisments, I can now say "Yes Mum, I am looking after myself".

Akelaŕe, San Sebastian

Situated high on Mount Igueldo, overlooking the sea, Akelaŕe is one of three 3-star restaurants in San Sebastian (with Arzak and Martin Berasategui being the other two). The kitchen is overseen by head chef Pedro Subijana who has masterfully combined the finest local ingredients with modern culinary techniques and impeccable service.

Jonah and I were promptly seated at our table with a clear view to the sea; the restaurant relies on the natural light from the floor-to-ceiling windows which made the space feel warm and allowed for uninterrupted views.

The view from the table

Akelaŕe offers two tasting menus and each person on the table can order whichever they please (a departure from many restaurants that require all patrons to eat off the same menu). Jonah ordered the "Aranori" menu whilst I ordered the "Bekarki" menu. Even though Jonah and I had only known eachother for about 18 hours at this point, we both emphatically agreed to share both menus to maximise the experience¹.

The appetizers were the same on both menus and were presented very playfully. Representing a pharmacy, we were served Tomato and Basil Gel, Idiazabal Cheese Moisturiser, Sea Bath Salts, Mouthwash Cocktail and a Sponge.

The Gel was smooth with an intense flavour that was advised to be pumped out of the dispenser and onto the Sponge made of crispy onion bread. Jonah and I both loved this and lamented that we wished we had more bread, but realised that it would be unwise to fill up on bread so early in the meal.

The Moisturiser was a creamed Basque sheep's cheese that was strong in flavour yet very smooth.

The Sea Bath Salt was consisted of dried prawns held together by potato paper. Once in the mouth, the paper dissolved and the prawn flavour burst through.

Lastly, the Cocktail consisting of Cava and Grenadine which was very light and cleansed the palate.


I loved the presentation of the appetizers; it was fun and playful and each element was delightful to eat.


After the appetizers, we were offered a selection of breads (white, wholemeal or multigrain) served with the finest olive oil I have ever tasted. The bread offering was endless through the service but I felt very few courses required it.

At this point we were also offered a detailed "running sheet" of the menu in English with full descriptions of each course. I have listed these below as provided by Akelaŕe in italics.

First Course - Aranori Menu "Prawns and French Beans cooked in "Orujo" Fireplace: Peeled in the tail, cooked in front of the guest in the dining room, with wine spirit. We recommend to suck the head and to accompany the tail with the green beans and the green beans cream."

Our waiter, cooking the prawns tableside over lava rocks

The completed dish

The prawns were cooked perfectly and the beans were a nice accompaniment. The powered prawn shells were extremely intense and although I enjoyed it, if you weren't a fan of seafood, it may be a little overpowering.

First Course - Bekarki Menu

"Xangurro in Essence, its Coral Blini and "Gurullos": The crustacean's meat is reinforced by its juice. Accompany with the pasta that looks like rice grains."

The crustacean meat was very flavourful and the blini had a soft palatable texture. The coral imparted quite a "fishy" taste but it wasn't unpleasant. The grains were fluffy and perfect for soaking up the leftover essence.

Second Course: Aranori Menu

"Molluscs in Fisherman's net: Open mollusks on charcoal fire, with a cream of rice and borage, covered by a net in which there are some remains of the sea."

Visually stunning, the taste of the ocean was present in every bite. Under the net were prawns, clams, oysters and goose barnacles to name a few. Dried shrimp and seaweed were placed as though "caught in the net" demonstrating the high attention to detail present.

Second Course: Bekarki Menu

"Razor Shell with Veal Shank: Combine Razor shell with veal and cauliflower mushroom. Textures, flavours, contrasts...."

The menu description describes it perfectly; the veal shank was gelatinous, similar in texture to marrow whilst the razor clam had more bite and the "mushrooms" were shaved so finely they melted in the mouth. Textures, flavours, contrasts.....

Third course: Aranori Menu

"Pasta carpaccio, Piquillo and Iberic with Parmesan shrooms: Homemade pasta with Piquillo and Iberic flavour. It feels like eating cold meat, even though its vegetable."

Jonah had ordered this course without the meat as he is pescatarian. Nevertheless, it was perfect and I didn't feel as though it was missing an element. I have no idea how Chef Subijana can make pasta taste so "meaty". It was a strong course both taste wise and technique.

Third Course: Bekarki Menu

"Sauteed Fresh Foie Gras with "Salt Flakes and Grain Pepper: Sauteed Foie Gras with a lot of "Salt'n'Pepper"."

The Foie Gras was seasoned tableside and as the waiter poured on about a tablespoon of "salt" I was tempted to ask him to return it to the kitchen for ruining a perfectly good piece of foie gras. Of course, not everything is as it seems....the salt was a type of crystallised sugar (not as sweet as table sugar though) and the pepper was made from puffed black rice.

The sugar complimented the fattiness of the foie and the pepper provided a welcome textural crunch. I loved this but could only eat about half as it was simply too rich (especially given that we weren't even halfway through the meal at this point).

Fourth Course: Aranori Menu

"Cod Tripe: "Cod tripes" preparation, Cod simulating Veal tripes in a white tomato juice."

I have yet to see a menu in a restaurant in Basque country that doesn't list cod. This preparation was very well done. The "tripes" are pieces of cod that have been moulded to resemble tripe and are quite soft in texture whilst the fillet of cod has retained its usual firm texture.

Fourth Course: Bekarki Menu

""Fried Egg" with Green peas, little farm vegetables: Eat the Vegetables in two parts, the leafs as a salad, the fruits al dente. Try the baby peas by themselves. What a sensation! Break the egg and eat it with the peas."

This course was tasty, but safe. Fresh off my experience at Etxebarri and no longer recoiling at the sight of peas on my plate, I was open to enjoying this course. The egg yolk combined well with the peas but overall I wasn't inspired by this course. Perhaps it was a little too rustic compared with the other innovative courses.

Fifth Course: Bekarki Menu

"Turbot with its "Kokotxa": The preparation is made entirely with Turbot, including its "kokotxa". Pil-Pil sauce. A crispy chip of its own skin."

We had asked for some menu substitutions in the Aranori menu to remove the meat course; accordingly, this was the fifth course for both of us.

"Kokotxa" is the cheek of the fish but the turbot is "cheek-less" so the chefs have created their own. The fish was cooked well and the "cheek" was the highlight of the course, soft and gelatinous in texture it combined well with the sauce and firm flesh of the turbot.

Sixth Course: Aranori Menu (usually the fifth course, with the sixth as the meat course)

"Whole-Grain Red Mullet with Sauce "Fusilli": Red mullet fillet, head and bone's praline, liver and onion. Fusillis stuffed with parsley, soy and "ajo blanco" sauce. Whole-grain because we use the whole Red Mullet, including head, bones and liver."

The "fusillis" were the heroes of this course. Consisting of a firm jelly, each one was overflowing with intense flavour of soy, parsley or garlic and although solid, provided the "sauce" for this course.

Sixth Course: Bekarki Menu

"Roasted Suckling Pig, with Tomato "Bolao" and Iberian Emulsion: To get a crispy and juicy texture, the baby pig is cooked in Iberian broth and finished in the oven. Start with the baby pig with tomato "bolao", continue with another bit of the Iberico emulsion. Finish tasting all together. Tomato "bolao". Iberico emulsion."

Perfect. Crispy skin, with sweet tomato meringue complimenting the pork, garlic chives for bie and a smooth emulsion sauce. Nothing more needs be said.

Seventh Course: Aranori Menu

""Xaxu" and Coconut Iced Mousse: Tolosa Traditional little cake with the permission of Gorrotxategui pastry chef. We have recreated: egg and almond with a side of Coconut Ice Cream"

The sphere in the centre oozed egg and almond whilst the ice-cream was airy and light and dissolved on the tongue. I don't know what NASA type technique Chef Subijana has used on the ice-cream but it was wonderful.

Seventh Course: Bekarki Menu

"Milk and Grape, Cheese and Wine in Parallel Evolution: Grapevine, curded sheep milk and walnut. Powered fresh cream with chive and grape. Quark cheese with nutmeg and pink pepper aroma, must of tapioca and tomato. Idiazabal semi-matured with wine jelly and wine dust. Torta of Casar's grape with soaked raisins in Pedro Ximenez. Brandy sirop with Gorgonzola cheese ice cream. Start from the left to the right to recognise each and every of the different flavours that the milk has, as well as the transformations that the grape and milk suffers from the origin up to the oldness."

Though I love cheese and grapes, I was disappointed with this dessert. In order to show the evolution from milk to cheese, and grape to wine, there were some really bland elements to this course. Unfortunately, the strength of the other elements wasn't sufficient enough for me to fully counter the weak points and my disappointment.

Eighth Course: Aranori Menu

"A Different Apple Tart: Puff pastry toasted-apple cream-puff pastry-and our house made eatable apple paper. The traditional apple tart is very good, but we have made a new one. Our apple tart does not have fresh apples but tastes much more than others."

Without doubt, Chef Subijana has created the greatest puff pastry in the world. It was light, crisp, clean and didn't leave any fatty residue in the mouth. The Akelaŕe paper was intensely apple flavoured and reminiscent of dried fruit rollups that children pack for school lunches. I love apples when fresh but have never enjoyed apple tart as I don't like the soggy apple texture. In this dessert, all the flavours of the apple are present, without the sogginess. I loved it!!

Eighth Course: Bekarki Menu

"Citrus Shell and Chocolate Shaving: Little citric filled shell, with chocolate cotton candy and cocoa ice cream."

Commonly, chocolate dessert courses are rich and heavy. This, however, was not. Whilst the small quenelle of fine dark chocolate ice-cream was rich the other elements balanced that richness especially the shell filled with intense citrus cream.

During our meal, Chef Subijana came to our table to ask how we found the meal. Jonah, being fluent in Spanish, was able to convey our enjoyment and also how far we had each travelled to dine here.

Although both full, Jonah and I were able squeeze in the mignardises which were served in a bowl covered in pear "fruit rollup". The waiter cut this open table side and once eaten, revealed a selection of 5 types of chocolates and candies. My favourites were the chocolates filled with banana and the passionfruit jellies.

The service at Akelaŕe was professional and efficient without being stuffy. They were genuinely happy to have you dining with them and made every effort to ensure our experience was perfect. All the staff we encountered spoke some english (and french) and even though Jonah was fluent in Spanish, they would address me in english rather than simply relying on him to always translate.

Akelaŕe was the last of my three great meals in San Sebastian. I have been trying to determine which meal I preferred of the three and it is impossible to compare as they are all so different. Akelaŕe and Etxebarri have spectacular views, Arzak does not. The service was faultless in all three but Arzak and Etxebarri had more warmth. Arzak had higher highs but also some disappoinments, whereas Etxebarri and Akelaŕe were consistent.

I can say this though....did I have one of the finest meals of my life? Yes.
Can I recommend it to anyone travelling to San Sebastian? Yes.

If I returned to San Sebastian, would I eat here again? Probably not; whilst I would prefer to try Mugaritz or Martin Berasategui before coming back to Akelaŕe, I think Arzak and Etxebarri will always have the top two spots in my heart.

_____________________
1 Unlike a certain friend of mine, who shall remain nameless, who refuses to share dessert after over 5 years and more than a hundred meals together... you know who you are!

La Cuchara de San Telmo, San Sebastian

There seems to be one common conversation that is repeated on a daily basis all over San Sebastian. For the sake of simplicity, I'll refer to it as the "Question".

Person A: So, why have you come to San Sebastian?
Person B: To eat.

I have been party to over a dozen of these Questions, both as Person A and Person B and it seems to be common thread that binds the majority of tourists to this part of the world. Of course, there is more to do here than simply eat. There are three beaches, three mountains, great shopping with plenty of interesting boutiques, the "old town" with winding alleys and the charm of a bygone era. However, the drawcard that trumps them all is the food.

I am staying in a shared room at Pension Amalur, a wonderful place with charm and plenty of comfort. Yesterday, it seemed that there was a complete turnover of guests and of course, the Question was asked by all. Which of course resulted in another truism that I have discovered here: "another day, another eating companion".

Today I met Jonah. Hailing from Philadelphia, he has spent the last year teaching English in Madrid and before heading home, decided to come to San Sebastian to eat. He lamented that he wasn't able to obtain a booking at any of the many Michelin-starred restaurants in town. Luckily for him, tomorrow I have a booking at Akelare and even though I keep confirming with Akelare that I am a table for one, the staff always confirm it's for two.

With tomorrow resolved, however, that left Jonah and I with the decision of what to do this evening. It was after 9pm and I hadn't yet been able to confirm any other plans so we headed for more pintxos to La Cuchara de San Telmo. Considered to be more innovative than the traditional pintxos bars, there is no food on the bar and all items must be ordered from the menu on the chalkboard (or the more condensed English menu available for the tourists).

Ribs of Iberico pork glazed with vinegar of modena and honey


Sea-scallop wrapped in acorn fed iberico bacon


Crispy stuffed goat cheese with vegetables and sesame oil


Grilled rock octopus with sauteed cabbage leaves


Garlic risotto with goats cheese

I really enjoy this style of eating; I heard it described as "eat a little, often".

At any restaurant, when I order off an a-la-carte menu, I always prefer to order two appetizers and no main course. I find that portion sizes to be more managable, the chefs are generally more inventive, and the ingredients more unusual. The main courses usually follow a formula: large piece of protein, a grain/starch, some vegetables and a sauce. This formula, however, doesn't seem to apply to appetizers which is why I prefer to "eat a little, often".

San Sebastian at night

Fuego Negro, San Sebastian

This morning I decided that it was time for a change of pace and some exercise was in order; a tiny act of penance for the volume of food that has been consumed over the past three days. I decided to walk along the beach and up and down Mount Igeldo as it is the highest of the three mountains and would afford the best views of the area.

Of course, having not eaten anything since finishing lunch at 6pm the day before, all this walking started to make me hungry and at 2pm I decided it was time to find some food. I headed into the Old Quarter to Fuego Negro, a modern pintxos bar that has been receiving strong reviews.

The interior of the bar is decorated in red and black and the lights are quite dim (at all times of the day). Of course, the busier a bar seems to be, the better the quality and this certainly held true here.

Unlike most bars, there was very little food set out the bar and the hot dishes were listed on the chalkboard behind to be ordered. There were also english and french menus available to assist the tourists. One of the few items on the bar (pictured right) was crisp bread topped with goats cheese, confit tomato, and jamon. Of course, I ordered one and it was simple but delicious. Goats cheese is a very expensive ingredient back home and I never turn down an opportunity to sample it whilst I can.









I next ordered a "lunch-kit" of salmon, apple, cheese and breadsticks. Although tasty, I found this to be incredibly over-priced for the portion size compared to everything else. The salmon was cured and served cold and there were a few cubes each of apple and cheese. Nothing innovative there at all.













Following the salmon was a tiny kobe beef burger served with onion, lettuce, mayonnaise and banana chips. The beef was so succulent and moist and the banana chips were an enjoyable and unexpected alternative to the standard potato crisp. A full-size version of the burger could easily fetch $25-$30 at a restaurant back home.













The final pintxos was ordered because two other couples around me had both ordered it and loved it. Simply described as "cheese, tongue and polenta", it seemed to be a signature pintxos here. The cheese was mild with the tongue falling apart on the fork. The polenta was at the bottom of the plate, soaking up all the juice from the meat and giving a pleasant textural contrast.

By far the most expensive pintxos bar I have visited in town (considerably so); but with the exception of the salmon, it was well worth the expense and I would recommend it to any other travellers.